Visiting Lisbon, Portugal

If I leave you with only one piece of advice it is that: You HAVE to see a fado show. There are dozens of over priced options in the tourist areas but I found a hidden gem called Sr. Fados located in Alfama district.  It only seats 25 or so people and is open Wed-Sun night.  It's a price fix without any choices, but the food couldn't be more local or fresh.  The owner has a farm outside the city where he grows his own wine, olives and vegetables and his wifes family has a fish stand where they get the fresh catch daily.  Even the cheese is made right outside of the city at his elderly neighbors house!   You have to make reservations (the hotel can do it for you - even though the place is small it has a really good reputation) and the owner and his wife will serve all the food before the show begins.  It feels like you're visiting close friends and they're playing music for you in their living room, but the atmosphere couldn't be more traditional and his wife has a very beautiful voice. 

While all of Lisbon is dotted with adorable restaurants, the Barrio Alto and city center are extremely over priced and touristy.  For the real good finds head to Alfama.  The salt cod is a must (bacalhau) and of course the pastry shops.  You'll have to try port wine and the local whites while you're there -- but beware, the ports are so strong and very pungent! 

Truthfully, even with a week in Lisbon, I felt like the city was unconquerable because of the expansive size and wealth of tourist attractions.    I am generally all for saving money and utilizing the public transportation ..but a hop on hop off tour was the best investment I ever made.  There are more unique museums, monuments, castles, and neighborhoods then you can imagine and with the hop on hop off you can more easily navigate through the city and chose the few things you'd really like to spend your time on. 

Tourist stops worth mentioning: St. Georges Castle, Belem Tower, Jeronimos Monastery, the museum that hosts the world's largest collection of royal carriages, design and fashion museum, world's 2nd largest aquarium, Parque Eduardo, 

We did one day in Cascais, a small beach town about an hour north and if you can get there I 100% recommend it.   We just added the trip to our hop on hop off 3 day pass, but there is a train that will take you right from Lisbon to the city center of Cascais in 45 minutes.  From the drive along the cliffs to the pristine beaches and adorable boutiques ...I truthfully would take up permanent residence here if I could fish, cook, or really anything else useful for employment.  Cascais bonus: If you go by bus you'll pass Estoril - which is home to Europe's largest casinos. 

Trip to Lourdes, France - Getting there!

One would think that when visiting a place that gets trampled by hundreds of thousands of pilgrims annually there would be an easy way to get there.

Well, you couldn't be more wrong! but thankfully for you, you have stumbled across my blog and now will be all set for your journey from terminal to grotto. 

1. When you depart Toulouse airport, purchase a bus ticket (5 euro) from the bus window and hop on the one that reads "Navette Aeroport".  The bus runs every 20 minutes.  The ticket window attendant will probably speak english.  Say bonjour, parle englais?  If you don't get a yes then say "deux" which just means 2 then give 10 euros. 

2. The ticket needs to be inserted into the yellow machine, arrow facing down, when you step on the bus.  If you didn't purchase tickets at the window, you can purchase on the bus.

3. Take the bus 4 stops to "Matabiau Gare SNCF" The ride will be 20-40 minutes depending on traffic. (if you miss the stop you can get off at the last stop "Garre Routiere" it is also the bus station, just further down)

4. Cross the street and enter the station.  You can purchase tickets to Lourdes from the yellow ticket machines or from the ticket window.  Trains run every 1.5-2 hours starting at 6am.   Ticket for the regular train cost 27 euro the journey is roughly 2-2.5 hours, for the faster train, you will pay a few euro extra and shave off a half hour.

5. When you are ready to go to your train tracks you will have to have your ticket punched at the small yellow machines.  Simply slide in the ticket facing up, head down the stairs and follow signs to your train track.  You can also purchase tickets on the train - and most take credit cards.  I do not know if they charge an additional fee.

6. When you arrive at the Lourdes stop, you will be rather far (over a mile) from the Grotto and tourist hub.  It is definitely walkable if you are traveling lightly, but if not I suggest asking the ticket window to call a taxi or taking the city bus, which has a stop right out front of the station.  If you're encountering difficulty, there is a best western across the street with English speaking help who are more than happy to assist you on your travels!

A day in Toulouse, France

Toulouse is magical.

Quintessential France, with the splendor of Paris - but not overrun with fanny pack touting tourists.

If you only have one day to explore Toulouse, as I did, then your main objective should be to simply embrace this french wonderland.  Go right to the historic center, fuel up with a buttery, flakey croissant and strong french press espresso and spend your day strolling the cobble stone streets.

We stumbled upon Place Wilson and I squealed with delight at the chic cafes pouring onto the square.  Hop from square to square, enjoying the aroma of the differing shops, the fresh flowers blooming out of one and macaroons lining the walls of another.  Every turn will lead to a new discovery - a row of designer fashion stores sprinkled with pastry and coffee shops.  It is so easy to let the magic of Toulouse overtake you, but make sure you eventually make it over to the river for a snapshot.

 I left my heart in Toulouse- Have a croque madam for me, and finish it off with a nutella and banana crepe.

Pilgrimage to Lourdes, France, Attractions and what to do!

With a little research and planning, the quaint town of Lourdes is completely conquerable in one weekend.


Here is the list of things to see and do, ranked by importance.  If you can hit the first 5, you will undoubtedly feel satisfied with your pilgrimage, but the additional attractions are just in case you are feeling ambitious!



1.  The Baths.  Everyone goes to Lourdes with the intent of submerging in the healing baths, but as I have previously posted, whether you will be able to dip in or not is a bit of a gamble.  Alas, I would still stake out in line for a few hours with a snack (nutella and banana crepe perhaps?) and a book to read (how about the bible?) as you will definitely incur a wait.

• From April to October: Week-days: 09.00 am - 11.00 am / 2.30 pm - 4.00 pm / Sundays and Holidays: 2.00 pm - 4.00
• From November to March: 10.00 am - 11.00 am/ 3.00 pm - 4.00 pm  / Sundays and Holidays: 2.30 pm - 4.00 pm

2. The Grotto.  The Grotto is open all year long, and can be accessed at night by avenue Mgr Theas.  It is important to remember that you must refrain from speaking while in the area immediately outside of the Grotto.  There is a line to walk through that moves at a steady pace, discouraging you from praying or reflecting inside the cave. It will take a few minutes to an hour to pass through but you can let your hand graze over the contours of the cave walls as you wait, which is rather inspiring.  When you emerge from the Grotto, you will see rows of metal pews to pray and listen to the rosary. 

3. The Candlelight Procession.  Nightly at 9pm - buy your candle ahead of time or bring a euro to donate for a candle at the esplanade. The procession will start right on time by the Grotto and while you follow the candle behind you and sing along with the Ava Maria, you'll be led around the esplanade to the sanctuary entrance.

4. The holy water faucets -- Fill up canisters or just lean your hands right down to the spout and savor a little sip.  The faucets are attached to the right side of the church before you reach the grotto.  Make sure to stalk up on little bottles to take back for loved ones. 

5. St Basilica Pius X - Boasting the title of worlds largest underground church, the modern concrete building can house 25,000 worshipers at one time. 

6. Daily Mass in English at 9:00 AM in the Chapel of Sts Cosmas and Damian.  It's located in the same building as the confessions to the right of the sanctuary, along the water.  The mass is located on the 2nd floor, which is actually the third because Europeans count the ground floor as zero, not one.  This open auditorium is nothing special, and I was disappointed by the lack of decorations (superficial maybe, but we're in Lourdes for Pete's sake, you'd figure the windows would at least have a little stained glass)- but are you really going to make the trip all the way to Lourdes and not go to one mass you can actually understand? There wasn't anything for us to kneel on during mass, so we had to put our knees right onto the cold linoleum.  The mass, however, was beautiful and I loved the sense of community I felt being surrounded by 100 english speaking catholics, with a sea of Catholics from every corner of the world just below the windows. 

7.  Confessions in English.  Located in the reconciliation chapel, to the right of the esplanade.  The confessions are held daily 10-11:15 and 2:30-6:00.  Don't worry if you haven't been to confession and are unsure of the process, the priest will give you a small pamphlet to help you follow along.

8. Blessed Sacrament Procession.  Daily at 5pm. This starts at the Esplanade, where the underground church entrance is and goes through to St Pius x basilica.  Aunt Hilda, this fabulous soul who volunteered every year for 40 years at Lourdes, swears that there are more healings during this procession than from a dip in the baths. 

9. Way of the Cross High Stations.  Located above the upper basilica entrance this loop is extremely steep and not for the physically unfit.  I jogged the path one morning before breakfast and was absolutely exhausted before I even reached the top.  This loop is not wheelchair accessible and will be very tiring, but the beautiful imagery and sense of peace that will wash over you at each station is worth the push.  There is also a way of the cross low station across the river, behind the meeting tent.  This much more condensed (and flat!) variation is a better option for those who aren't feeling up for the steep incline. 

10. Tourist Shopping.  You will find hundreds upon hundreds of the same store selling the same exact tourist knicknacks, but at different prices.  Poke around and see which is offering the best deal before pulling out your wallet.  Every store is sure to have rosary beads, crosses, holy water vases, and candles.

11. Chateau-Fort & Musee Pyreneen.  Visiting the castle will provide you with a panoramic view of the city and sanctuary.  There is also a museum included in the ticket price. The fort is completely accessible by foot, with an entrance just off of Rue la Grotte.

12. Musee de Cire - Wax Museum located on the Av Peyramale.

13. La Nativite - A museum dedicated to nativity on Qua Saint-Jean.

14. Musee de lourdes - A museum of Lourdes history, located on Rue des Pyrenes

15. Bernadettes home - Visit the house Bernadette was born in and lived the first 10 years of her life. Located on Rue Bernadette Soubrious, you can tour the small living space.  Tours are available Spring through Fall from 9:00-12:15 and 2:15-7:00pm. 

16. Le Petit Lourdes - a museum that depicts the story of Lourdes in a mini display. Place Mgr Lawrence

Lourdes, France - Hotels and Lodging

  WHERE TO STAY IN LOURDES:


With 100s of hotels dotting each avenue, finding the perfect sanctuary for your pilgrimage can be overwhelming.

We stayed at the Grand Hotel Moderne and I couldn't have been happier.
      The sophisticated winding banisters lead guests from a dark but elegant dining room to 5 floors of rooms, most of which have walk on balconies.  The bathrooms were luxurious and modern with a private room just for the toilet off of the front hallway.  Large comfortable beds and great water pressure made our stay very enjoyable.

    Many of the hotels offer a special package where breakfast, lunch and dinner are included in the room rate.  While under normal circumstances I would never even consider taking advantage of a deal like this (i can get mediocre food catered to American tourists anywhere), Lourdes is seriously lacking in fine dining options and the hotels offer an easy fix for exhausted travelers.

  The food at Grand Hotel Moderne was no more than alright.  A wonderful breakfast spread with fresh baked croissants, fruit, eggs and ham made the food bearable, but lunch and dinner were a complete disappointment, especially considering how delectable french cuisine can be.  Bland soups followed by overcooked beef and potatoes.  Desserts ranged from ice cream to flan to tirimasu, all of which were of a poor quality.  I will say that the endless flow of local wines was a very nice touch - the sweet white is incredibly refreshing and pairs well with the local cheese and fruits.

  The staff was pleasant and spoke fluent English.  The room was charming and comfortable and the location unbeatable - we literally were steps from the Grotto!  My only complaint (aside from the food) is that the balconies are connected to the rooms next door so you are unable to leave the door open.  Also the business center was closed the entire stay and the internet connection for wifi was not reliable.


There were a few other hotels right in the area of Grand Hotel Moderne which seemed equally nice.  Other hotels nearby: Hotel Royal, Hotel de Paris, Sainte Rose, and Hotel Rossiey.





The average cost/night for the Grand Hotel Moderne is $170 USD, but that seems on par with the other 4 star hotel rates in the area.

Trip to Lourdes, France, all you need to know for your pilgrimage!

A pilgrimage to Lourdes can be fulfilling, memorable and of course healing, but only if you go armed with some very important traveling information.  For the next few posts I'll give you the necessary tools to make your visit a success.

It is important to fully prepare yourself for your trip to Lourdes, as you will be in an environment unlike no other.

What to expect: 

1. Be prepared to see many near death devotees.  You'll see more crippled, mentally handicapped, and terminally ill than you would ever see in any given hospital.  It is not uncommon to watch a stretcher wheel by with what you are sure is a skeleton or a never ending row of wheel chairs moving faster on their private wheel chair lane than the pedestrians are on the sidewalk.   it is ok to stare,but please do not gawk.  These fellow Catholics have traveled very far for a dip in the healing pools, treat them like heros not like lepers.  Lourdes might be the only place in the world where the sick and crippled are transformed from outcasts to first class citizens, or even royalty.  Embrace this and offer to push a cart, lend a smile or offer kind words of encouragement and hope.  This is truly what the experience is all about. 

2. The tourists are inescapable, arguably more than you saw on your last trip to Disney. And while they are all bible abiding, Jesus loving Catholics, they still are extremely pushy and even rude.  Hold your own.  You deserve the holy water or to visit the cave just as much as the next pilgrim, and remember that.  If you let one person cut in the line to the baths, you may have just unwittingly let an entire busload cut in front of you. 

3.  This is the most disappointing expectations, but a complete reality.  DO NOT EXPECT TO GET INTO THE BATHS.  I know, I know, you traveled all this way with the sole purpose of being healed in the baths.  Well, you and the 90,000 other tourists who visit every year. The baths are open from 9-11 and 2-4 in the summer months.  If you are set on dunking under, then I would advise waiting in line at 7:30 AM as the very first activity you do in Lourdes.  Be prepared to get cut by people who are very sick or crippled, as they get top priority.  *Also make sure you check the Catholic holiday schedule, the baths will be closed on these days... and there are quite a lot holidays. 

4. If you are traveling alone, or without a bus group, then I would strongly advise mapping out your route to Lourdes and your hotel stay once there.  Despite the thousands of pilgrims heading to Lourdes, finding the bus, taking it to the train station and getting on the right train to Lourdes.. only to be dropped off a few miles from the tourist hub, can be daunting.  Not everyone speaks English, so come manned with a few basic travel phrases and a pocket dictionary. 

5.  You will not be "seeing France" or experiencing any of the wondrous French delicatessans or fabulous shopping.  Lourdes is a very small village of sorts that only caters to tourists.  The food is mediocre, the non-religious shopping non-existent.  There are other fun tourist activities, like museums and a trip to the castle, but you will not satisfy your desire to see and embrace French culture in Lourdes.